Site Assessment & Design

Before any digging starts, a qualified installer assesses your yard: soil type, drainage patterns, existing vegetation, slope, and how the green will integrate with surrounding landscaping. This is when the green’s shape, hole positions, and any contouring features are finalized. A thorough site assessment takes 30–90 minutes and should result in a design sketch included with your written quote.

Red flag: Installer quotes immediately without assessing the site in person.

Demolition & Excavation (Day 1)

Existing grass, plants, or hardscape within the green footprint is removed. The area is then excavated to a depth of 6–10 inches below finished grade — enough to accommodate the aggregate base layers plus turf thickness. Excavated material is hauled off-site or redistributed in your yard. Any irrigation lines within the footprint are capped or rerouted at this stage.

What to ask: What excavation depth are you specifying for my site, and why?

Sub-Base & Drainage Installation (Day 1–2)

A layer of larger crushed stone (typically 3/4” to 1” aggregate) is installed at the bottom of the excavation for drainage. This sub-base layer allows water to move freely downward and out. In areas with heavy clay soil or poor natural drainage, a French drain system or perforated drain pipe may be incorporated at this stage. On clay-heavy sites, additional drainage engineering is essential — not optional.

Red flag: No mention of sub-base drainage layer in the installer’s process.

Aggregate Base Installation & Compaction (Day 2–3)

This is the most critical phase of the entire installation. 4–6 inches of Class II base rock or decomposed granite is installed over the sub-base and compacted in lifts (layers) using a plate compactor or roller. Each lift is compacted, checked for level and grade, then the next lift is added. Contours and slopes are shaped into the base at this stage — the turf simply follows the base shape. Proper compaction density (typically 90–95% Proctor) is what prevents future settling.

What to ask: What aggregate are you using? How deep and in how many compacted lifts?

Weed Barrier Installation

A commercial-grade weed barrier is laid over the compacted aggregate base before turf installation. This prevents any weed or grass growth from penetrating through the turf from below. The barrier is secured at edges and around any drain locations. Consumer-grade weed fabric is not sufficient for permanent installations — look for woven geotextile fabric rated for commercial landscape use.

Turf Installation & Seaming (Day 3–4)

Turf rolls are laid over the prepared base, cut to shape, and secured at the perimeter with nails or staples into the aggregate. For greens wider than a single roll (typically 15 feet), multiple pieces must be seamed together. Professional seaming uses heat-bonded tape or specialized adhesive systems to create an invisible, structurally sound joint. This is a critical skill — a poorly seamed green shows ridges and affects ball roll. The turf is pulled taut during installation to eliminate wrinkles before it’s secured.

What to ask: Does my green require seaming? If so, what seaming method do you use?

Hole Cup & Fringe Installation

Hole cups are cut into the turf and base, with cup liners set at the correct depth (3–4 inches for standard cups). Flag pins are installed. If a fringe area is part of the design, the fringe turf is installed around the green perimeter at this stage, blending with the primary putting surface and any surrounding landscape features. Border edging (typically aluminum, steel, or timber) is secured around the full perimeter.

Infill Application & Brushing (Day 4–5)

Silica sand or specialty putting green infill is spread evenly across the surface and worked into the turf fibers using a drop spreader and broom. Multiple passes ensure even distribution. The correct infill depth (typically enough to reach about 75% of fiber height) is critical for surface consistency and ball roll speed. Once infill is complete, the surface is brushed with a power broom to lift fibers to upright position and distribute infill evenly.

Final Inspection & Walkthrough

A professional installer walks the completed green with you before leaving. This is when you should putt several balls across different lines to verify consistent roll, inspect seams and edges, check that all hole cups are properly recessed, and confirm drainage appears functional (pour water at several points and observe). Any concerns noted during the walkthrough should be addressed before payment is finalized.

What to do: Putt from multiple positions. Walk every edge. Ask the installer to show you where seams are located.